Tuesday, July 19, 2016

June 9 - Amorous to Keros

After our breakfast, we loaded the rental car and headed for the monastery.  The drive was full of beautiful scenery and involved a 2 lane winding mountain road.  After a few wrong turns, we parked in what appeared to be a primary school parking lot in the quaint an somewhat preserved town of Chora.  We were at the top of one mountain and could see the parking for the monastery at the base of said mountain.  Fortunately, there was a trail all the way down.  Unfortunately, I was the only one who was wearing something besides flip-flops.  Regardless, we started the hike and took many pictures on the way day.  Halfway down Scott had the bright idea to go get the car and take it to the parking lot at the base of mountain so we wouldn’t have to climb back up in flip flops—we were very grateful for this after the journey!


            Upon our arrival to the monastery we met the Abbot who had just returned with a truckload of groceries.  I am grateful to Scott for offering all of our to transport these necessities to the top of the mountain (which is where the monastery sits in the rocks).  So all the Boltons and Ashleys grabbed a grocery bag or two and started our climb up the “Holy” mountain.
            The climb was much more difficult than anticipated.  We didn’t know how the Abbott had planned to transfer the groceries himself because he is an obese 62-year-old mean who walks tenderly on his knees and uses a cane.  After about 15 minutes of grunting and sweating and straining we reached the top of this incredibly unique monastery.

            After taking the groceries to the monastery I went back and took the Abbott’s cane which he was using to hold groceries over his shoulder.  Taking them up to the monastery.  Brittany and Everlie walked with the Abbott (Spirotos was his name) and enjoyed their intriguing conversation on race, Islam and Obama using very few English words.  Apparently he shares our views regarding politics.  He said “Islam problem” and proffered an invisible machine gun maneuver with his a hand and pretended to cut his throat with a knife. I guess he would be a Tea Party Republican in the States!
            At the very top of the staircase there was a young bearded man with raggedy clothes who welcomed us.  He was kind of goofy and Scott wondered if he was the village idiot (respectfully, of course).  He would start singing a song and the Abbott would tell him to hush.  He told us he had been there for 5 years and was an “apprentice”.  What a lifestyle to choose!  He also told us he didn’t like the current pope because he required everyone to have a radio frequency identification tag implanted in them.  The Abbott was 62 years old and had been at the monastery for 44 years!
            We entered the monastery with caps out and tongues tied out of respect for the atmosphere.  There were 2 small sanctuaries in the monastery with lots of silver and gold lamps, frames and portraits of the Virgin Mary, Jesus and other stories from the Bible.  All these things were obviously old and had been there for probably hundreds of years.  After we looked and experienced the “holiness” of the place, we were taken to what appeared to be their dining room where we were given water, brioches (sweet bread) and samples of their homemade Raki.  There was a chair at the head of the dining room table that was black and had ivory figures on the back of the chair and front of the armrests (the figures were ivory carved lions).  It was a beautiful chair.  I couldn’t handle the sweet ness of the Monk-made Raki but didn’t want to be rude so thankfully Everlie had an empty water bottle that we quickly poured the Raki into and hid in her purse before the monks returned to collect our dirty dishes!


            We walked down the stair after bidding farewell to the Abbott (where he blessed us and thanked us many times).  After piling into the rental care we drove back to the village of Chora. This was a really neat town with small lanes, clean and simple architecture and multiple taverns.  The bougainvillea were massive and provided shade!  There were lots of trellises that had plants on them covering the alleys providing shade and beatify.  We stopped in one store a bought a locally made coffee cup. 
            We planned to eat lunch in Chora but didn’t find a place advertising gyros so went to another tavern by the harbor where we enjoyed delicious gyros.  A good gyro is made of pita bread, meat of some sort, tzatsiki sauce, French fries, tomatoes and onions—delicious!
            We left the harbor around 14:30 en route to another uninhabited island where we could spend the night.  The waters once again incredibly smooth and ushered no wind for our sails so we used our man mand wind again to make our around the long island of Amorgos.
            En route to Keros, we sailed by an old shipwreck that was very interesting to observe.  We took several photos and Bertrand told us that this boat had been in a movie.

            We didn’t stay long and were soon our way at 7.5 knots (by engine this is the most fuel/energy conserving speed) to the beautiful uninhabited paradise.  What a paradise it was!  Upon arrival I was asked to dive in and swim to a rock mooring with a rope in my hand to secure our boat in the harbor. 
            Bertrand says this was likely a pirate cove because it is so well protected from the open sea.  There were also large black stones at he bottom of this harbor that were seemingly out of place.  Captain told us pirate ships most likely dumped these stones where when transferring treasure or smuggled goods from one ship to the other so the weight of the accepting ship would remain the same.
            Scott went snorkeling.  Davis rowed the dinghy and Everlie swam to shore.  Everlie wanted to explore the mountain but there were critters “rustling the bushes” so she chose to watch Davis hit rocks with a piece of bamboo.  It should be noted that by the Grace of God no injuries were made or caused by the many roks thrown by Davis on this trip.
            After enjoying our private beach and harbor on the island of Keros, Bertand rang the dinner bell and served us a delicious meal of freshly caught and grilled fish, tasty potatoes and grilled zucchini with tomatoes and fresh bread and white wine.  It was an incredible meal for which we were very grateful.  We were served watermelon for dessert. 

            The sun went down shortly after dinner and we read, wrote, contemplated, talked, listened and relaxed in our own private beautiful harbor for the night. 
            The stas were incredibly beautiful.  So many things were visible due to the absence of man-made light.  We could easily see the Milky Way.  Stars were twinkling like I had never before seen.  Before bed every evening, I joined Captain Bertrand for a sweet sip of homemade Raki.  I enjoyed this ritual as the drink proved to be “medicinal” and “good for digestion.”  While looking at the stars, Betrand softly said, “We are so small” and repeated himself before bidding me goodnight and walking to his cabin. 


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